Questions, answered properly

Both, plus a third option. Mobile detailing happens at your home or office within about 25 miles of our Medford shop. Coating, correction, PPF and tint happen at the shop — they need controlled lighting, dust and cure time. And we pick the car up and bring it back if you would rather not lose a day.

No. We carry our own water tank. All we need is a parking space with room to work around the car.

Level 1 is a single layer of Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light and runs 2 to 3 years. Level 2 adds EXO V5 over it for 5 to 6. Both assume normal washing — no automatic brush washes.

Film is the only one that stops a rock chip. A coating is chemical and UV protection plus gloss, across the whole car. The most common setup is film on the front and a coating over everything, including the film.

Tell us and we will look at it. We would rather you called than lived with it — the work is meant to last, and if it has not, we want to see the car again.

How much correction happens underneath, and how many layers go on top. Level 1 is an enhancement polish at 40–60% defect removal plus one layer of CSL, for 2–3 years. Level 2 is a full multi-step correction at 80–90% plus CSL and EXO V5, for 5–6 years, and adds wheel faces and all exterior glass. On swirled paint, Level 1 locks the swirls in.

No — this is the most oversold claim in the category. It resists light marring and chemical etching, not rock chips, keys or brush-wash swirls. For chips you want paint protection film.

Yes. A coating makes washing easier and less frequent, not unnecessary. Skip it for months and contamination builds on top — then people conclude the coating stopped working.

Coatings need controlled dust, stable temperature, correct lighting to see the levelling, and an overnight cure. A driveway supplies none of it.

Yes — $100 off both levels, across every vehicle class. The struck-through figures in the table are the regular prices.

Film is physical — the only one of the two that stops a rock chip. A coating is chemical and UV protection plus gloss, across the whole car. The common setup is film on the front and a coating over everything, including the film.

On a good install you have to look for the edges. Where the panel allows we wrap them so there is no line at all. Partial tiers have a cut line across the hood by definition — the main reason people step up to Full Front.

Not on factory paint, professionally removed with heat. The risk is aftermarket respray of unknown quality, and we check for that at intake.

Light surface marring, yes — the topcoat reflows with heat. A cut or deep gouge does not heal; that section gets replaced.

It depends on the vehicle and coverage tier — panel complexity varies enormously between cars. Send photos with a quote request and you get a real number, not a range.

Front side windows and the windshield must let more than 70% of light through, so no film darker than 70% VLT on the front sides. Rear glass is generally unrestricted on passenger cars. Verify the current statute before relying on this.

New York meters front window and windshield light transmission at annual inspection. Too dark fails and has to come off. We install front windows at the legal limit.

It depends far more on the film than the darkness. A quality ceramic rejects a large share of infrared even at a near-clear 70% VLT; cheap dyed film at 20% does much less while looking far darker.

Not with carbon or ceramic film. Older metallized films did interfere — that is a solved problem in what we install.

New York provides an exemption process for documented conditions, granted by the state rather than by an installer. Bring approved paperwork and we install to what it permits. PLACEHOLDER: confirm the current application process before publishing specifics.

Light haze visible only in direct sun is a single-stage job. Obvious swirl webbing under any bright light is multi-step. Use the self-assessment above, then send photos.

When it is measured, yes. Correction removes clear coat, which is finite, so it runs against depth-gauge readings and a test spot. Done without measurement it absolutely can damage a car.

No. If your fingernail catches in it, it is through the clear coat. Expect 40–60% defect removal from one stage and 80–90% from multi-step.

If you want the coating to be worth what it costs, yes. A coating is optically clear and lasts years — it locks in whatever is underneath.

Correction is priced by paint condition and panel count. A number posted without seeing the car is one we would have to walk back. Send photos and we will give you a real one.

No, and anyone who promises that is guessing. Organic and oil stains usually come out completely. Dye transfer, sun bleaching and anything set for years may only lighten. We tell you which yours is before we start.

Two to four hours with the windows cracked, longer in humidity. We extract as dry as possible, so the car is drivable immediately.

Yes. It adds time on heavily-used vehicles, which is why pet hair is a named upcharge rather than a surprise on the invoice.

Usually. Smoke embeds in fabric, headliner and the ventilation system, so it takes treatment in all three. Heavy long-term smoking is the hardest case and we will be honest about the odds.

Yes. The Deep Interior package includes a full exterior hand wash — the price in the table is the whole job.

No. A wash and wax hides very fine marks temporarily but removes nothing. Removing defects is paint correction.

It is a different thing. Tunnels use the same brushes on every car and are the main source of swirl marks. A hand wash with foam pre-soak and two buckets is how you avoid adding damage.

Every 8 to 12 weeks for most cars. Every 6 for a car that lives outside, plus a rinse during salt season.

Yes, with adjustments. Below a certain temperature sealants will not bond, and then we move the car inside rather than do work that will not last.

Yes. The Express Detail covers both — vacuum, mats, full interior wipe-down and glass.

We carry our own water tank, so you do not need to run a hose out. All we need is a parking space with room to work around the car.

We watch the forecast and call the day before if it looks bad. Rescheduling costs nothing.

Yes. Cold changes the products and adds time. Below a certain temperature exterior work will not cure, and then we move you to the shop or reschedule.

Within about 25 miles of our Medford shop, Suffolk County only. Past that it becomes a shop appointment or pickup and dropoff. The quote form tells you which as soon as you enter your address.

The price for a car in normal condition for its size. Heavy pet hair, sand, salt or stains add time. We confirm the final number before we start, never after.